ITA 91 CRX conversion to FP
- Thread starter raffaelli
- Start date
blamkin86":1ed4w9aa said:
Yeah, that is why I posted that, so there was no confusion.
Then of course there is this little tidbit in the top of the GCR
So do you need clips and straps on the stock windshield since it isn't bolted to the frame? Why are AS, B-spec, SM, IT, and ST, exempt? Do their windshields, side windows and rear windows have special properties that help keep them in place without the magic clips and straps?
Perhaps that could be SLIGHTLY less confusing SCCA.
JasonIsley99
Well-known member
Brett W":1ikegqt5 said:
Back when the Prod rules were written how many cars had glued in OE glass? Most of the old stuff likely did not, and I suspect that is where the rule came from.
When we built our 1970' Corolla I was shocked how easily the installer was able to remove the windshield and swap out the pressure fit gasket.
blamkin86":3qcrhh5j said:
I sorta disagree. Bonded windshields can come loose, I've had one come completely unattached on a street car. Would actually have fallen out under braking except it was captured by trim on the lower edge. I could push the upper edge out and forward about 2-3". Not common I know!
So here is where I ended up:
OE glass windshield with upper and lower exterior clips.
OE glass hatch with exterior straps.
Best I can tell, this is compliant. However, I will write a letter asking for clarification and perhaps suggest elimination of the straps and clips on OE glass that are installed in an OE manner.
Will be running as an ITA car in FP this weekend. I have more to do to be officially an FP car.
OE glass windshield with upper and lower exterior clips.
OE glass hatch with exterior straps.
Best I can tell, this is compliant. However, I will write a letter asking for clarification and perhaps suggest elimination of the straps and clips on OE glass that are installed in an OE manner.
Will be running as an ITA car in FP this weekend. I have more to do to be officially an FP car.
JasonIsley99
Well-known member
raffaelli":2fqufpke said:
Why not have them rebuilt?
JasonIsley99
Well-known member
raffaelli":17jjbk9q said:
You going to run the same spring rates as you move from IT to FP? The rebuild is an opportunity to change the valving.
I know Lee will argue with me, but the Koni "race" shock is a revalved Koni Sport. They are an emulsion shock, low tech at best. I would step up to a "grown up shock", like a Bilstein, Penske, JRI, Ohlins, Dynamics, etc. Yup, not cheap like Koni race shocks, but totally worth it. Koni does offer "grown up shocks". Their 2800, 8200 and 3100 series shocks are top level stuff.
The last set of Koni race shocks I had rebuilt, Koni couldn't do them so they went to Performance Shock. Nice shop, but they can't re-charge the nitrogen in the shocks? So basically they just depressurized the shock and set it back. Thanks.
I am running Bilstein shocks, and there are bunch of options there. You can take any of the race car specific shock parts and fit them into regular old Bilstein street shocks. Adjustable shafts, custom valving, remote canisters. etc/ You could easily take a set of off the shelf Bilsteins and build them the way you need them. (assuming you are working with a proper shock builder)
What ever you decide to do, work with a competent shock builder who is familiar with what you are trying to achieve. Also make sure they aren't stuck in the old school ways of thinking regarding shock valving. Good shocks make all the difference in the world.
The last set of Koni race shocks I had rebuilt, Koni couldn't do them so they went to Performance Shock. Nice shop, but they can't re-charge the nitrogen in the shocks? So basically they just depressurized the shock and set it back. Thanks.
I am running Bilstein shocks, and there are bunch of options there. You can take any of the race car specific shock parts and fit them into regular old Bilstein street shocks. Adjustable shafts, custom valving, remote canisters. etc/ You could easily take a set of off the shelf Bilsteins and build them the way you need them. (assuming you are working with a proper shock builder)
What ever you decide to do, work with a competent shock builder who is familiar with what you are trying to achieve. Also make sure they aren't stuck in the old school ways of thinking regarding shock valving. Good shocks make all the difference in the world.
