Weber DCOE Throttle Return Spring Question

Rob Futcher

Rob Futcher

Well-known member
Upon investigating the reason for the throttle being jammed open on my '7, I found that the internal thottle return spring on the front carb had broken at the top, allowing the spring to fall between the arm on the spindle and the housing.

Given that this can even happen, I am not keen just to replace the internal spring, but would like to remove it and run with external springs only.

Have any of you had similar problems and what's your recommended solution? Any words of caution regarding the use of external springs only?

Thoughts anyone?

Thanks!
 
This exact same thing happened to the Webers on my GT5 Mini. We took all of the internal springs out and ran forever with external springs. I think that you will find that it's a pretty common problem/solution.
 
I always ran with an external spring, I always felt the internal spring was too weak.
Just got a spring from the hardware store and attached it from the link to the head. Size the spring so that when its closed, there is very little tension on it. That way it won't slam the throttle shut.
 
Rob, I check (and replace if necessary) the internal springs every few races. I saw that the springs that broke had been wearing for a long time on the round attachment plate on top. New springs, checked and changed about every other year, were never in danger of breaking.

Using a needle nose pliers, it is very easy to change the springs on the car with only removing the carb top.

That's what worked for me. Peter
 
I prefer using larger external springs. But, be careful.

If you machine your throttle shafts to flat profile or a thinner diameter, and use 2 return, but opposing springs, on opposite ends of the shaft, you will eventually have a problem getting it to run well. It will bend the thinner throttle shaft!!!

You may even have the same problem using a single spring, if there is heavy residual spring pressure at idle.
 
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