Towing capacity related to a particular diesel engine

T

Think Racing

Well-known member
My wife and I are looking at diesel motor homes capable of hauling about 10,000 pounds of trailer, car and gear.

Currently, I'm pulling with a F350 Super Duty, but I'm looking at a Winnebago Class A diesel pusher that has a Caterpillar 7.2 liter turbo diesel. 330 HP, 860 lbs of torque and Allison 6 speed.

Can this engine move the motor home and my trailer?

Edit: how big is the difference between 330 HP and 350 HP?
 
Think Racing":22vocni8 said:
My wife and I are looking at diesel motor homes capable of hauling about 10,000 pounds of trailer, car and gear.

Currently, I'm pulling with a F350 Super Duty, but I'm looking at a Winnebago Class A diesel pusher that has a Caterpillar 7.2 liter turbo diesel. 330 HP, 860 lbs of torque and Allison 6 speed.

Can this engine move the motor home and my trailer?

Edit: how big is the difference between 330 HP and 350 HP?
Click to expand...


I tow a 28' trailer with mine. 8.3l cummins. 360hp and 1100 torques.
What is the weight of the coach?


I l
 
29,400 lbs.

The specs say the combined weight is that of the coach plus 5,000 lbs with class three hitch. I'm wondering if the coach could handle more weight with a higher rated hitch?
 
You may have to check with the coach manufacturer. The rating will depend on chassis, engine and trans combination, rear axle rating a host of things in addition to the hitch.
I have a 2002 American Coach built by Fleetwood and it is rated to tow 10000 lbs. It has a 8.9L diesel rated at 375 hp and 1200 ft lbs of torque. The torque rating is what is most important in determining the suitability of the engine. That is what gets you rolling and keeps you rolling on grades.
In the coach there should be a placard that gives axle ratings, gross weight, and Gross combined weight(the coach and what you hook to it.) There is also the Cargo Carrying Capacity. This is the gross weight of the vehicle, minus the unloaded vehicle weight, minus the water weight, minus the LP gas weight, minus SCWR (how many people can sleep in the vehicle @ 154 lbs each), this is how much "stuff" you can load into the vehicle.
Then you need to be sure the tires on the vehicle is capable of hauling this amount of weight.
The power of the engine is down the line a bit. I am sure the engine in the vehicle you are looking at will haul it. How fast do you want to go up hills?
 
Fred, we have been towing with a motor home for years. Most of the bigger, newer ones have brakes and suspension enough for the job. As noted above, engine size will dictate how well it gets up hills. PA is the biggest test for ours in the areas we race. We usually use the turnpike because the grades are a little easier. You will never make good time with a motorhome anyway. Also, you could strip out some weight. Would you wife notice the oven missing?

Really the biggest concern about tow ratings is that the hitches are rarely strong enough on motorhomes for frequent towing of car trailers. Usually they need to be reinforced where the meet the frame. This is not usually a big deal on a front-engined chassis, but a pusher may require a more experienced eye to determine how to beef up the hitch if it needs it.
 
Fred
Ed York is one of the most knowledgeable people I have ever met on this subject. He helped me understand a lot of the specs and issues with motorhomes and I don't even own one yet. You should chat with him as well.

cheers
dave parker
 
Thanks for the responses. I ended up finding a coach with the right GCVW for what I needed and am finalizing the deal. :applause:
 
My family business was a trailer hitch shop. Although I never towed a big trailer myself (single-car open behind a Ford Aerostar), I did have a friend lose a trailer when a lightweight home-built hitch broke off his just-purchased used motorhome! I strongly suggest that you have a good trailer hitch shop install and/or reinforce your hitch. I suggest that you want a 2 inch square hitch with a removable ballmount -this can be an easy way to get the ball height correct so everything sits level when loaded- important! You might consider a weight-distributing (or equalizing) hitch with the spring bars which transfer some weight forward...
Nobody mentioned trailer brakes and controls, which are very important to have. Also, consider a sway-control device for side winds, passing trucks. Some folks with multi-axle trailers don't think they need them but with all the side "sail area" of an enclosed trailer they are a good idea. Take care.
 
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