tire replacement question
- Thread starter Greg Nagy
- Start date
dave parker
Well-known member
Greg
Buy a tire, have it mounted and balanced.
Put it on the car and run the crap out of it.
Wash, Rinse, Repeat if necessary. :lol:
cheers
dave parker
Buy a tire, have it mounted and balanced.
Put it on the car and run the crap out of it.
Wash, Rinse, Repeat if necessary. :lol:
cheers
dave parker
Tom Broring
Well-known member
Greg, when I buy a new set I always save and carefully store the best 2 as spares to use in cases like yours. Adding one new one on the rear with the locked diff should not be a problem. You could then keep that as a spare next time you buy a full set. I do have a used Hoosier with 4-5 events you can have if you want it. I did not have it at Summit to offer then.
Joel McGinley
Well-known member
Well, you might also want to measure the new mounted tire at your typical "hot pressure" (Mine was 25 psi on a Sprite.) Make sure the new tire is not too different in circumference or it can affect your corner weights and handling (think rear stagger with a locker-type diff...) If you have not been measuring your tire sizes then this is a good time to start! But try to keep one old tire each time you buy a set - just in case... Joel
Ron Bartell
Well-known member
At 5 weekends and what, 15 heat cycles on the other three you are probably in line for a new set. If there is somehow a reasonable amount of rubber still remaining on the other three I would buy two new ones and put them on ONE SIDE, that's right, one side of the car. I would definitely NOT put them on one axle or you will have a handful trying to keep the car straight, trust me. After a while you could buy two more and put them on the outside and move the others to the inside at that time. Obviously this all depends on how fast you are trying to go.
the plan was to get a set before the MARRS Labor Day Double, as the tires have otherwise appeared to hold up.
Just one more race between now and then. I do have 3 of the tires from a previous set, but they are still mounted and used as the garage/trailer set.
The missing tire/wheel from that set is also the RR.
Tom, I will talk to you offline later about the tire offer.
Ron, thanks for the side vs axle advice. The replacement pattern was what I was looking for.
Joel, I have not measured tire size, just pressures and temps. Just assumed Boyle's law was in play.
Thanks all
Just one more race between now and then. I do have 3 of the tires from a previous set, but they are still mounted and used as the garage/trailer set.
The missing tire/wheel from that set is also the RR.
Tom, I will talk to you offline later about the tire offer.
Ron, thanks for the side vs axle advice. The replacement pattern was what I was looking for.
Joel, I have not measured tire size, just pressures and temps. Just assumed Boyle's law was in play.
Thanks all
Greg -
One thing to keep in mind is that the older tire or tires may take much longer to "come in" (ie up to optimum temp/grip) in a session, so you may get some odd handling after say a lap that then improves. Those of us w/ fwd cars often run a different compound on the rear and run the rear tires longer, ie more cycles, as they barely wear. I've been surprised more than once by an older rear set causing oversteer a lap or two into a session. Then they bite and all is good....
One thing to keep in mind is that the older tire or tires may take much longer to "come in" (ie up to optimum temp/grip) in a session, so you may get some odd handling after say a lap that then improves. Those of us w/ fwd cars often run a different compound on the rear and run the rear tires longer, ie more cycles, as they barely wear. I've been surprised more than once by an older rear set causing oversteer a lap or two into a session. Then they bite and all is good....
Gary Wittman
Well-known member
If I was to put only one new tire on, I would try to get at least one heat cycle on it in a practice session before racing with it and I would put it on the side facing the inside of the track. I typically add two new tires when replacing old tires. This is done also on the side facing inside of the track.
Greg -
Coming from a tire engineer.... Mount/balance the new tire, and run it on the front position that is on the outside of most of the turns at the track (typically left front since most tracks have more right handers than lefts). Remove all 4 tires and while still hot, set all pressures equal to a typical hot pressure (25-26 psi should be good). Take a flexible tape measure and measure the centerline circumference of each tire. Put the two most consistent on the rear positions, larger of the remaining two on the front position that's on outside of most turns (again, typically left front), and the last on the other front position.
Even if the replacement tire is already broken in, I would still put it on and run for 1 hot session to remove any buildup and hardening of compound while the tire was in storage...
Just my two cents...
Jason
Coming from a tire engineer.... Mount/balance the new tire, and run it on the front position that is on the outside of most of the turns at the track (typically left front since most tracks have more right handers than lefts). Remove all 4 tires and while still hot, set all pressures equal to a typical hot pressure (25-26 psi should be good). Take a flexible tape measure and measure the centerline circumference of each tire. Put the two most consistent on the rear positions, larger of the remaining two on the front position that's on outside of most turns (again, typically left front), and the last on the other front position.
Even if the replacement tire is already broken in, I would still put it on and run for 1 hot session to remove any buildup and hardening of compound while the tire was in storage...
Just my two cents...
Jason