Protech Racing
Well-known member
From My E book;
For axle plunge; Unscrew the axle nut about 3/4.in or remove .
With the car sitting on the wheels fully loaded as raced, Push the axle towards the trans.
It should move around 3/8 in or a little more. The low spec is 1/4 in ,and the high spec is 1/2in. One side is usually more than the other.
If you have broken one axle more than once, and the plunge value is less than the other side , move the engine across the car, increasing the broken side's value.
The value can be changed by, taking camber out at the strut top, adding some at the knuckle, moving the ball joint out,
I track the axles by cleaning the drive flange very well and painting the inner flange and rubber seal. Any scuffs on the paint let me know that the axle has hit the flange.
Grinding the end of the axle alittle back to the C clip helps. Moving the shim spacer behind the CV to the outside can help.
Often the "dime store" axles are not the correct items. Mk 2 axles will fit the Mk 1 on the street- may work- but they are 1/4 in longer, same Mk 3/Mk 2 /Mk 1. Some may work in other cars and the parts store axle rebuilders may sell the incorrect numbers.
RE ride height, low front seems to work just fine. Lower the rear until the axle hits the body, keep the brake line clear.
HTH,
MM
For axle plunge; Unscrew the axle nut about 3/4.in or remove .
With the car sitting on the wheels fully loaded as raced, Push the axle towards the trans.
It should move around 3/8 in or a little more. The low spec is 1/4 in ,and the high spec is 1/2in. One side is usually more than the other.
If you have broken one axle more than once, and the plunge value is less than the other side , move the engine across the car, increasing the broken side's value.
The value can be changed by, taking camber out at the strut top, adding some at the knuckle, moving the ball joint out,
I track the axles by cleaning the drive flange very well and painting the inner flange and rubber seal. Any scuffs on the paint let me know that the axle has hit the flange.
Grinding the end of the axle alittle back to the C clip helps. Moving the shim spacer behind the CV to the outside can help.
Often the "dime store" axles are not the correct items. Mk 2 axles will fit the Mk 1 on the street- may work- but they are 1/4 in longer, same Mk 3/Mk 2 /Mk 1. Some may work in other cars and the parts store axle rebuilders may sell the incorrect numbers.
RE ride height, low front seems to work just fine. Lower the rear until the axle hits the body, keep the brake line clear.
HTH,
MM