Optima Red or Yellow?

L

Larry Frankenstein

Well-known member
Should I go with a red or a yellow? I know there is a difference, but don’t recall exactly what it is right now. Your experiences and/or knowledge appreciated.

Thank you,
L
 
No alternator yellow top.
Alternator Red top.

Yellow top is deep cycle it has a lower resistance. It can be drained deeper but can be damaged by to high charging current.

Red top can supply higher current for a short time for hard to start engines. It does not like to be deeply discharged and can be damaged by doing so.
 
According to Jerry I apparently bought the wrong one, and it was a while ago so I don't know what reasoning I used to choose the red one - maybe they didn't have any yellow ones? - but it has worked fine for at least three years now on a total loss system so it isn't a black or white decision.
 
It is like the pirate code, more like guide lines.

And you should know that what we do is a combination of science and art with a little FM thrown in.
 
I like the yellow one because it's supposed to be a marine high vibration one. Used these for years, no problem.
 
Batteries Plus has the best price on Optima batteries in our area, you might want to check to see if they have a store in your area.
I went there to buy an Optima for my race car and ended up buying a "glass mat" battery with a five year free replacement warranty instead. The Optima only had a three year free replacement warranty.
 
I've had two Red Tops go junk, completely refusing to take a charge, after being fully drained. Literally had to throw them away.

My yellows have been good for 5+ years...

The yellows are another 20lbs heavier than red.

-M
 
My brother has successfully revived more than a few "dead" Optima red top batteries using the method described in this link.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/517984-how-recharge-deeply-discharged-optima-battery.html
I have one of them that's from 2002 that I use every day without any issues.
I wouldn't trust it in my racecar but it works great in my forklift!
 
Ok, here is what I’ve got, and a question or 2.

I will be running an alternator (small 35 amp)

Red
More hot cranking power (not necessarily CCA – right?), can supply higher current for a short time for hard to start engines. (this usually applies to my car).

Does not like to be deeply discharged and can be damaged by doing so.

Yellow
Deep cycle – better choice in a car without an alternator.

Can be damaged by too high charging current? Define too high charging current.

20 lbs heavier than Red (I can live with this – battery is in the front, engine and most weight in the rear.).

More vibration resistance (hopefully I don’t need this, but won’t hurt. I’ll probably switch to this in our off road car which has run a lot of miles with a red. Would like to be able to swap batteries between the 2 cars. Budgetary consideration.)

Thank you,
L
 
Yellow top
Recommended Charging Information:

Alternator: 13.65 to 15.0 volts

Battery Charger (Constant Voltage): 13.8 to 15.0 volts; 10 amps maximum; 6-12 hours approximate

Float Charge: 13.2 to 13.8 volts; 1 amp maximum; (indefinite time at lower voltages)

Rapid Recharge: (Constant voltage charger) Maximum voltage 15.6 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until
current drops below 1 amp.

Cyclic or Series String Applications: 14.7 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature
remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 3 amp constant current for 1 hour.


All limits must be strictly adhered to.
 
Matt Brannon said:
I've had two Red Tops go junk, completely refusing to take a charge, after being fully drained. Literally had to throw them away.

-M
Click to expand...

+1, me too... mine still sitting in corner, so i'll try that other process...
 
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