Clark Lincoln
Well-known member
Looking for recommendations.
One man brake bleeder
- Thread starter Clark Lincoln
- Start date
David Dewhurst
Well-known member
4 bottles simo using gravity. :wink:
loopracing
Well-known member
Think Racing
Well-known member
I've been using speed bleeders with good success.
I also have the Phoenix system which does a reverse bleed and it works pretty good.
I also have the Phoenix system which does a reverse bleed and it works pretty good.
jimmypet
Well-known member
I also built a couple copies of what the "Motive bleeder" is out of a bug sprayer for super cheap.
Small bug sprayer, a barbed fitting, a set of quick disconnects and a junkyard master cyl cap.
I built them before that Motive thing actually hit the market.
I keep one in my trailer, one in my garage.
I also have a Vacula vacuum bleeder which is a great.
I have had it for around 12 years and its still like new. They are expensive but its a really well made tool.
Great for not only bleeding brakes, but vacuuming out reservoirs or anywhere you need pinpoint suction.
In the garage when I have the luxury of air I use them both.
The bug sprayer one as a reservoir and to lightly pressurise the system, then use a vacuum device at the calipers.
Works great in tandem.
Small bug sprayer, a barbed fitting, a set of quick disconnects and a junkyard master cyl cap.
I built them before that Motive thing actually hit the market.
I keep one in my trailer, one in my garage.
I also have a Vacula vacuum bleeder which is a great.
I have had it for around 12 years and its still like new. They are expensive but its a really well made tool.
Great for not only bleeding brakes, but vacuuming out reservoirs or anywhere you need pinpoint suction.
In the garage when I have the luxury of air I use them both.
The bug sprayer one as a reservoir and to lightly pressurise the system, then use a vacuum device at the calipers.
Works great in tandem.
TED HEINRITZ
Well-known member
The pressure bleeders are great, but if there is a little leak at the connection to the master, you can end up with a mess.
I start by removing most of the fluid in the master, then hook up the pressure bleeder. Since the pressure bleeder adds fluid, the master won't run dry. Then keep and eye on the fluid level in the master if it slowly goes up, then there is a air leak at the connection to the master and there will soon be a mess. Bleed off the pressure and try to fix the leak. Also use the smallest amount of pressure needed, doesn't take very much pressure to work.
Some of the tilton master tanks will not seal up perfectly with the seal on the cap that connects to the pressure bleeder.
I tried using the vacumm type once, I was getting air leaks at the bleeder so that didn't work. But others have had good luck with that type.
I start by removing most of the fluid in the master, then hook up the pressure bleeder. Since the pressure bleeder adds fluid, the master won't run dry. Then keep and eye on the fluid level in the master if it slowly goes up, then there is a air leak at the connection to the master and there will soon be a mess. Bleed off the pressure and try to fix the leak. Also use the smallest amount of pressure needed, doesn't take very much pressure to work.
Some of the tilton master tanks will not seal up perfectly with the seal on the cap that connects to the pressure bleeder.
I tried using the vacumm type once, I was getting air leaks at the bleeder so that didn't work. But others have had good luck with that type.
I was getting air leaks doing vacuum bleeding, fixed that by putting teflon tape around the threads of the bleed screws (not extending into the tapered seal area). That sealed the threads well enough that the tiny bubbles stopped.
It was probably bleeding fine even WITH the thread leakage but it was hard to tell and looked disconcerting.
Al
It was probably bleeding fine even WITH the thread leakage but it was hard to tell and looked disconcerting.
Al
TED HEINRITZ
Well-known member
That is the problem I had with the vac bleeder. Air bubbles never ended, due to small air leak at the bleeder screw. It was very annoying. Some sort of thread sealer should help, but I bought a pressure bleeder before attempting to seal the beelder screw threads.
The pressure bleeder makes it easy to flush the fluid, should be done once in a while on street car and race car. More often if the calipers get hot, just how hot do they get to burn the paint off the pads anyhow.... Hawk blue for one session then hawk chalk white.
The pressure bleeder makes it easy to flush the fluid, should be done once in a while on street car and race car. More often if the calipers get hot, just how hot do they get to burn the paint off the pads anyhow.... Hawk blue for one session then hawk chalk white.
Bill Underwood
Member
Dean
Well-known member
If you look on the Tilton site or in the info they have in the box that the master cylinders come in they recommend bleed bottles. They sell them but I made couple out of 16 oz soft drink bottles. Buy some clear tubing that fits over the bleeder screw, cut a hole in the bottle cap for the tube to fit through, fill the bottle part way with fluid and push the hose through the cap until it is submerged. Do this on the front and back calipers on one side, open up the bleeders and push slowly and release a number of times. Tighten the bleeder and check for brake travel and then move to the other side. Always worked great for me except for one time when there was a weird problem with the master cylinder. It felt like it was working but it was not pushing fluid through the caliper and since I was not down there watching it I could not see it. Replaced the master cylinder and that fixed it.
Jay Lutz
Well-known member
Stay away from any brake bleeder that stores too much fluid to use in a single session. The key to bleeding brakes is to open the bottle just before you use it...........then use it ALL up. Thus.......buy it in pint containers and no bigger. BF is hygroscopic (absorbs water from the air) even in a closed system. Dry brake fluid=effective brake fluid.