Lexan Windshield Installation

Clark Lincoln

Clark Lincoln

Well-known member
I am just winding up my GT6 Lexan windshield installation and thought I might relate some things I learned.

#1 - make a very accurate pattern out of something close to the thickness of the Lexan - I used the soft masonite and scored it to help bend at the outer edges.

I used an ordinary saber saw with a 10TPI blade to cut the Lexan - no problem.

The biggest problem is bending the Lexan around the tight outer portion of the GT6 windshield. Heating it to a little over 200 degrees had no effect on bending, and as I work alone, you have to have an extra set of hands to bend it down and get your holes drilled - and get the fasteners in. So, the brain storm I had was to take one of my ratchet tie down straps and hooking it to the door bars simply cranked the corners down so I could do the drilling and fastening.

I used 8X32 button heads around the sides and in the central portions (where there is little tension) - 3/16 rivets.

Oh, and of course - GCR required tabs.

I hope this might help anyone trying to do the same.

Clark Lincoln
EP GT6
 
What are some sources for NASCAR take-offs? Another thread referenced racingmetal.com, but they have not returned my email and phone messages.

Rich
 
Don't know about NASCAR stuff, I got my Lexan at the local Alro Metals outlet. 2X4 1/4" thick cost me about $70.
 
Racingmetal.com is where I got my lexan, I believe that the front 1 was from a Chevrolet and the rear was from a Taurus. he responded to my emails but it took a while and I went to his shop and picked up 3 or 4 of each. They were brand new with the labels and plastic still on them.
 
I had gotten a couple of windshields from Racingmetal.com earlier this year. Even with shipping the amount was maybe $80 to Wisc. Great deal. It did seem to take some time to get him to respond and check his stock, but worth the time. I never asked what they came out of, just dimensions. I used a cardboard template to get close and actually sanded it to fit. Had help in the shop when mocking it up, but liked the tie-down idea, Clark. Fastened with stainless button-heads.

Unfortunately, it all came back out as I am a ways away from paint. I am just starting to work on the plugs and molds for the fiberglass.
Chris
 
That was my experience too. NO response to various attempts to contact.

Please share if anyone finds another cheap source....
 
I think it's luck of the draw re contact, I called a few times and finally got the guy, who was then quite helpful. I bought 2x used Cup car windshields for I think $25 each and they arrived promptly. Worth persevering IMO.

I suspect that the owner (?) travels a lot picking stuff up and is deluged with casual inquiries.

On a tangent - does anyone know if these things are Mar-Gard (sp?) coated under the tear-offs?
 
bought a bunch of COT front splitters from them a while back and the guy was very helpful. took 1-2 days to get back to me on email. Once I paid him ($30 for 6 splitters, $35 to ship. doh), I got the parts in about 4 days which meant he shipped that day or next.. I don't remember what time of year it was, but they're in the middle of the season right now so he's probably busy collecting stuff and processing it. they go through a lot of that and then spend some time in the shop to catch up on orders and shipping.

If any of you guys get in touch with them and are going to have any shipped to Houston area, throw two more on the order and I'll stick a check in the mail. :)
 
I interested in this thread as I never raced a "roofed" prod car, but that will change in the near future, and I'll have to do the lexan windshield as well. Iwas tinking of welding in several nut palte bracket and bolting the widshield in rather than riveting in , so it could be removed in the shop if extra cockpit access is needed, anyone done this ?

Also on a car with rear vent window where they open slightly with latches, for example like a MGB GT, Scirrocoo, etc., can the rear vent window be run in the open postiton or do they have to be run in the close position? Also you see vintage cars with holes in the rear hatchback lexan, I guessing that is a bigg no-no in the SCCA? To be honest with you, I never really paid much attention to rofed car and how everyone does this, guess I'll have to pay better attention now.
 
Hap,
On my RX7 the windshiels is held by tabs top and bottom to capture it and vertical trim pieces on the sides. It sits on foam weatherstrip. It is easy to remove for access and doesn't leak, even in the monsoon 2 years ago at the Runoffs. Also, this way there isn't any stress by bolting through the Lexan.
 
Hap, that's how i did it. Welded nut plates work well. Been in there 5 yrs with no cracks around holes. I used flathead screws and took a lot of care countersinking the holes. A little dab of silicone in the counter sink when assembling helps cushion the screws and stops leaking. I used to run an ex 2.5 challenge beetle that had pop out rear 1/4 windows and nobody ever said we couldn't leave them open. That is how they came stock after all. Helped keep the car cool in hot weather.
 
PCS 9.a.8.C.
Closed cars can remove all door window, quarter window and vent window glass. Window winding mechanisms can be removed. Door window, vent window and quarter window frames/channels can be removed. Door window slots can be covered. Closed cars can install clear polycarbonate material having a minimum thickness of 3mm to replace the rear, door, vent and quarter window glass. The windows in the rear door of a 4 door car and quarter windows can be run in their stock open or closed position. Ducts can be installed in the door, vent and quarter windows or resultant door window openings, for the

My recollection pre-rewrite was that they specifically needed to be closed, but the good book says you may run rear quarter windows in the open position.
 
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