Head cleaning

B

Bill Trainer

Well-known member
What is the best way to clean the intake and exhaust carbon build up in the head chambers? I am reluctant to use wire brushes because I do not want to give the appearance of "machining" - its LP. I have been using nylon brushes and steel hand brushes with carb cleaner or mineral spirits based parts wash without much success.



Thanks
 
Go to NAPA and get Berrymans Chem-Tool solvent. It used to come in a 1 gal paint can sized bucket with a bucket strainer inside. Close the valves and pour a bit of that in each port that needs cleaning. It will work like magic without affecting the metal.
 
Bill Trainer":1l5un959 said:
What is the best way to clean the intake and exhaust carbon build up in the head chambers? I am reluctant to use wire brushes because I do not want to give the appearance of "machining" - its LP. I have been using nylon brushes and steel hand brushes with carb cleaner or mineral spirits based parts wash without much success.
Click to expand...

You could always claim this:

Very top of the L2 powertrain rules:

Stock and permitted alternate components of the drive
train can be modified by any mechanical or chemical
means.

:)

James
 
Since my quote from the rule book is being quoted, I'll reply:

No way is that paragraph going to be interpreted as allowing any mechanical (or other) smoothing of the as cast/delivered interior of combustion chamber, ports, or intake manifold runners/interior, beyond that (ie 1" port matching) specifically allowed.

There was a well publicized DSQ of a limited prep prod winner a few years ago based on what I believe were pretty minor "cleanup" marks on the manifold interior (IIRC).

To stay legal in limited prep (ie L2) Prod you had better not clean things in those areas with anything that will leave marks, which I believe is well understood by the OP, thus his question. Going at things aggressively with a rotary wire brush, for instance, would be very dangerous wrt legality.

I was quoting that passage wrt shot peening con rods, which I think is well within the intent and likely interpretation of that clause.
 
I have now realized that I had actually gotten everything clean but was left with a gun metal grey patina that was throwing me off. I am surprised at how rough the inside of a cast head can be. thanks
 
Let a machine shop do it for first time rebuilds of junk yard heads. For Iron heads the "Bake and Shake" gets it really clean and keeps it looking "stock". Avoid bead blast on aluminum heads because it tends to leave abrasive behind. Just tell them what your needs are and that pretty looks are secondary.

For rebuilds and touch-ups I scrape off the heavy carbon/lead with a dull screwdriver and use a super fine 1" cup shaped wire wheel on a Dremel for final cleaning. It's so gentle that you can even use it to decarbon the valve seats if you are careful. Good eye protection is a must because it sheds wire.

This is what works for me.

Combustion chambers and exhaust ports carbon up with use so tiny changes in surface texture are unnoticeable. Intake ports will show any "work".
 
Find a machine shop that has an ultrasonic cleaner. I have used one and it works really well. It uses ultrasonic vibration and heat to bust loose the most stubborn of grime. No marks left and no funny looks from tech inspectors or fellow competitors.
Usually the comment is "Wow, how did you get that nasty looking thing so clean."

When I saw the title of this thread I was "concerned" then I remembered that this is the prod forum.

cheers
dave parker
 
Ken Nesbit":32e3ndv2 said:
When I saw the title of this thread I was "concerned" then I remembered that this is the prod forum.
Click to expand...

afraid you were missing out on something....
Click to expand...

Why yes, in more than one way.

Actually I have been so bored lately, (how many times can you clean the house and both garages?) that I have been looking for things to do. I have also reached the end of Al Gore's internet. It was a desolate, lonely place.

cheers
dave parker
 
Have you tried something new and different like....what's the term.... um....finding a JOB ????

Ok, cruel I know....but would you expect anything less?
 
If the head is completely apart, I glass bead them, then blow them out with air, then submerge in a vat of cleaner I have and draind them and blow them again to get all the media out of the water jackets. If you still have guides in the head, you can plug the ends of them for blasting.
 
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