Gear reduction starter

J

Joseph P Siam

Well-known member
Hi I tiring to locate the guy that epoxy fill the starters. I think he is in the Chicago area Anyone have a contact phone number?

Thanks Joe
 
Not sure that this is germane but it might be -

I had a string of failures of cheap Chinese Denso knockoff alternators on my HP car. The stators (fixed windings inside the case) were vibrating loose.

My local generator/alternator/starter rebuild shop (a dying breed I think) took a new one apart and reassembled it using more or better epoxy. They seemed quite familiar with what was happening and how to prevent. No more failures.
 
My problem with the Isuzu starters (spridget) was the wiring inside the solenoid breaking from vibration. I seem to have fixed that with application of gobs of Goop, available at your hardware and Home Depot. Seems to hold everything in place, and it's a simple matter to remove the rear solenoid cover, dab in the goop and seal it up again.
 
mmacquee":1mabtioh said:
My problem with the Isuzu starters (spridget) was the wiring inside the solenoid breaking from vibration. I seem to have fixed that with application of gobs of Goop, available at your hardware and Home Depot. Seems to hold everything in place, and it's a simple matter to remove the rear solenoid cover, dab in the goop and seal it up again.
Click to expand...

So that's what I need to do. Every now and then, it just quits working. Another thing to fix on my Spridget. Thanks Mike.
 
Are you guys saying GOOP like the hand cleaner? I just had a "brand new" gear reduction starter die after only about 14 starts last race weekend. Had to be push started then sat on grid with the motor running for about 25 mins. while the track was cleared from an incident. Luckily, it didn't over heat.
Mine is from BRITISH STARTERS. Replacement one is on the way but I'm worried the same thing is going to happen.
 
They're referring to a non-conductive epoxy of some sort.

The issue is thing buzzes and vibrates which fatigues the wires themselves, causing them to break loose- typically right at connection point. The solution is to secure the internal wiring somehow. a little "rubbery goop" secures and stops the fatigue of the wires.

I don't know if RTV silicone would be acceptable since it emits acetic acid (vinegar) when curing, and that stuff is conductive. Permatex website states that their "ultra copper" RTV is non-conductive, so I *assume* everything would be fine with any RTV once the stuff is allowed to cure.

Other options are to use an electrical potting compound of some sort, which is typically again a 2-part epoxy that's mixed and poured into something to protect and seal it.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-832 ... 230&sr=8-3
 
dcphotos, have you dissected to pinpoint the failure?

Often the main relay contacts are made from poor material, get stuck, or are otherwise a bad design.
There is also the opportunity to short the windings due to wearing away the coating with vibration. You can do a resistance check across the commutator.
 
There are a lot of RTV silicones now that are amine curing, any of those in a high temp, non-conducting version would probably work pretty good!
 
GT6":2qz2t0vg said:
dcphotos, have you dissected to pinpoint the failure?
Click to expand...

I didn't crack it open because it's still under warranty, it's three weeks old to me, and didn't want any "Hey, you opened this thing so no warranty for you!".

The guy at British Startesr was VERY apologetic and said thy were having trouble with their starters and race cars.

I figure I'll give it one more go and hope this one works longer.

Don
 
Glad it's under warranty.

I figured that the warranty was over the second it got connected to a race car.
 
GT6":3uz5cqv0 said:
Glad it's under warranty.

I figured that the warranty was over the second it got connected to a race car.
Click to expand...
That's why my parts people never find out it goes to a race car...

Rockauto and Autozone both think the supercharger belt in my STU car is from a mid 90s Dodge Caravan (I crossreff'd the P/N to the OEM application, then scabbed a VIN from a vehicle I saw in a junkyard). 3yr warranty from both, and I keep two of them in the spares kit along with the receipts. heh.
 
Don, my Spitfires would last a short while also and fail at the wrong time of course. I sent the guy four of my not working starters from British Starters for his new rebuilds. He uses the front nose cone and builds a new starter from there. Ill be into a starter for about $375.00. If that keeps me from panicking and pushing its well worth it.

Joe
 
I have a race next weekend so I'm finally getting around to this starter again. Just which wires are you guys talking about "groping" up? The little ones like I have arrowed in this pic?
 
mmacquee":cfrcdvt0 said:
My problem with the Isuzu starters (spridget) was the wiring inside the solenoid breaking from vibration. I seem to have fixed that with application of gobs of Goop, available at your hardware and Home Depot. Seems to hold everything in place, and it's a simple matter to remove the rear solenoid cover, dab in the goop and seal it up again.
Click to expand...

That is a common breaking point due to how we use these engines. I just go in there and replace that wire with bigger, stronger wire, been doing that for 20+ years.
 
I bought two of them from autozone and just swapped them out when they broke. They always gave a little warning, first time i pressed the button and it didn't go on the first time, but took a couple, i replaced it. then off to autozone to get it replaced under warranty.

i had better luck with the mitsuba starter over teh denso one...85 civic i think, and i just swapped my adaptor plate off
 
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