Full floating spridget housing

Joe Harlan

Joe Harlan

Well-known member
I am looking to modify a Spridget rearend housing to a full floating axle and hub setup. I do not want to reinvent this thing. Is there anyone that makes parts to do this or any information on bulding this thing. It is not a prodcar so I am not worried about the legality of aftermarket parts. Thanks in advance for any help. Shop number if you woudl rather call is 503-502-4671
 
Somebody help me out here if I've lost it.........but I thought the definition of a free floating rear end was a rear end design where a broken axle would not result in the loss (aka departure from the vehicle) of a wheel/tire. Using that definition, a stock sprite is a full floater. What am I missing?? When upgraded with double bearing hubs and a few diff oil control/containment tricks the sprite rear axle is pretty decent. The truly bulletproof design has to be the dwarf car solution though.

Thanks, Jay
 
My understanding is that the spridget rear-end is somewhere between a full and semi floater design.

To me a full floating rear end in one that the axle is supported at both ends and is only used to transmit torque, not vehicle weight. The axle is attached to, usually with splines, the hub on the outside of the axle and it is the hub that takes the weight of a vehicle. The hub is also what the wheel is attached to, so if the axle breaks or needs replaced, the wheel doesn't come off or have to come off.

A semi floating rear end is one that the axle itself is what transmits torque and holds up the vehicle weight. The wheel attaches right to the axle, which if it was to break, would send the wheel off the car.

The spridget is somewhere in the middle because it has hub, but you can't take the axle off without taking the wheel off. If the axle breaks the wheel stays on because it is attached to the hub which is attached to the axle housing. That's why it seems to be more of a full floater, but not fully :D

Just my thoughts, but I could be wrong...

tad
 
Jay You are correct and maybe I am just using the wrong term for what I want. I do not like the stock hub or even most of the double bearing hubs out there. My speedway hubs on the GTL car are taper bearing hubs with drive plates the axles float through the center of the drive plate and the side gears of the diff... I would like to convert a bugeye diff to function like this and still use the drum brake...Maybe a bigger task than needed. Speedway will convert the housing and build the hubs for me I have found that much out.
 
Joe, then I think you want the dwarf car setup.....super bulletproof but $$$$$$$$$$$$$. Not sure if it uses tapered roller bearings or not....but probably. Sounds like Speedway can do it also. Can you put a few degrees of negative camber in the rear while you are at it.....that would be sweet???? Good luck. Jay
 
Not sure what kind of car you are working with but if it's legal in your class why not just go to a quick change mini stocker rear like a Winters or any one of the numerous other types available. It's probably drastically less expensive and considerably more reliable than a modified stock Sprite/MGM rear and you have the advantages of easy gear changes to match tracks. And they can be serviced by the average racer!
 
Bob, its a G4 Ginetta... Mini stock would just weigh too much is the main reason. I have contacted Speedway I am going to have them retube my Bugeye Axel and full float the outer ends with their hubs. It is a vintage car and we have spent way to much to be breaking these parts all the time.
 
Joe,

Check the weights...I believe all those Mini Stock rears are 100-percent Aluminum. If not your idea with Speedway would certainly work and work well. I was thinking strength, ease of gear changes, availability of over the counter parts, Brake options and of course weight might make the Quick Change the best overall option.
 
Jerry I dont have a full answer back from them yet. I got stalled on this project for a month while I finished another car. I'll let you know.

Joe
 
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