I’m thinking about trying something different, so I’m putting my F Prod CRX up for sale.
1989 CRX Si, original build as a track car was done in the Portland area and the clean, rust-free nature of the shell definitely reflects its origin on the west coast. Beautiful cage, too.
Purchased in 2018. Since then, I’ve put a lot of time and money into it. When I bought it, it was basically an ITA car with a virgin SCCA logbook. I’ve always run it as a limited-prep FP car, though, and have been gradually building it toward those rules. Here are the highlights:
Blake Meredith-built D16A6. Plenty of power for the class—I was seeing trap speeds of 124-125 on the back straight at Mid Ohio and 121-122 on the front straight at Grattan even though I am a mediocre driver at best and usually brake way too early. Real Bisi header, RSX injectors, ~12:1 pistons, Web (I think?) cam. Rev limiter set at 8000 for reliability and longevity. Hondata S300. Dyno sheet available. Made 155 whp on a Dynojet, 139 whp on a Mustang dyno.
Mishimoto aluminum two-row radiator. Oil cooler (forget brand, will check and update ad)
Bonespec hybrid HF/ZC trans with 4.25 FD and OPM/Eckerich limited slip. The nice, tight spread of ratios in this box mean that 2nd through 5th are all usable. Lightweight flywheel, four or six-puck clutch (can’t remember, it’s been a while). Driveshaft Shop axles.
Fastbrakes 10.25 brake kit with Wilwood Superlite calipers and two-piece rotors. Stock MC and booster, but the Fastbrakes kit really improved the pedal feel. Stock rear drum setup, but with the finned aluminum HF drums.
Kingpin Machine sphericals for the front radius rods. PCI adjustable front UCAs, spherical rear trailing arm bearings, and rear upper camber links. Koni Yellows and adjustable coilovers (currently running 550F/750R),. ST rear swaybar. Karcepts front hubs.
Hardwired transponder.
Rywire engine/chassis harness
Lightweight Braille battery and two chargers (though I’ve never had to use them, as the car still runs an alternator and the Braille does not discharge appreciably between weekends or even seasons)
Kirkey road race seat. Racequip 6-point camlock belts, new this season.
Autometer tach, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, voltage, and fuel pressure gauges.
Fire system.
Minimum weight with the alternate brakes and gearbox is 1986 lbs. Car crossed the scales this year at Mid Ohio at 2022 lbs and 2030 lbs at Grattan, both times with the roughly 210-pound me in the driver’s seat. This is with steel fenders, hood, and hatch, and glass, not lexan. It certainly wouldn’t be hard to get it the rest of the way down to minimum weight.
Lots of wheels:
6 13x7 Compomotive CX-Rs. Currently, four of them have slicks mounted and two have Hoosier H2O rains.
4 13x7 Panasports with a mix of old slicks mounted.
4 13x7 Keizer 3-piece. Shells will need to be resealed to the centers. No tires.
4 13x5.5 Honda steel wheels with ancient Dirt Stockers
4 13x5.5 Honda alloys. Two have Hoosier H2O rains, two have no tires.
I also probably have a few loose slicks and a set of loose hand-grooved intermediates.
Spare trans, built by Bonespec, has about a season and a half on it. 4.9 FD, OPM/Eckerich limited slip.
Two spare stock transmissions.
Spare Exedy lightweight flywheel and clutch
Spare D16A6, mild build, would probably make an okay regional engine or base for another full-boogie FP engine.
Spare front uprights, rear LCAs (and probably stock upper links, too), Fluidyne aluminum radiator, swaybars, springs (400F/600R), ECUs, taillights and center panels, rebuilt axles (both sides)
Spare front and rear bumper covers (both red)
A couple other tubs of stuff I’m sure I’m forgetting, but will inventory and update this week.
For those who are seriously interested, I’ve got scads of photos documenting the build that were provided to me when I bought the car. Way too many to post here. It may not have quite been a money-is-no-object build, but somebody wasn’t afraid to throw a lot of money at it. In the previous owner’s for-sale thread, it was described as more of a show car than a racecar, and that was pretty much true. It’s since acquired the racecar patina, but it’s straight and never been in a wreck.
Car is basically turnkey and ready to go, though I would recommend chaning the timing belt and cam seal during the off-season. It’s reliable (my only DNFs since I bought it were when I ventilated the stock D16 back at the Grattan major in 2018, and at Road America, where I had a fuel starvation issue in left handers and decided to pull in, rather than get in anyone’s way) and fun to drive.
Even with a hack like me behind the wheel, it’s a front-running regional car and midpack national car. I managed to run a 1:27.6 at Grattan and a 1:42.6 at Mid Ohio, both with the stock front brakes. Put somebody with actual talent in the driver’s seat and tweak the setup accordingly and it won’t be hard to go faster than me. But after 5 seasons of driving FWD production-based cars, I’ve realized that I’ve plateaued as a driver, so I’m ready to try something different.
A 24-foot beast of a Wells Cargo enclosed trailer is also available with the car (or separately, once the car is sold). 7000-lb axles, 48” side door, lots of e-track on the floor and walls, extra-high (probably 7’ inside, since I’m nearly 6’4” and never feel the need to stoop in the trailer). Built in 1989-ish, I think, and definitely much stouter than most of the new stuff these days. New tires (including spare) a few years ago, brakes work well, pulls nice and straight. Husky weight-distributing hitch and anti-sway setup.
Tow rig also available. 2004 Ford E350 Club Wagon XLT, 12-passenger (regular body, not extended) with the 6.8 V10, tow mirrors, brake controller, etc. Quite a unicorn, from what I can tell, as most of the V10 vans out there are extended body, 15-passenger models that are probably less than ideal for towing. This one has Bilstein shocks all around and the Hellwig rear sway bar. New E-range tires all around (plus new spare) this summer. Hot heat, cold a/c, no rust. Sony touchscreen head unit with backup camera. 106,000 miles. Runs, drives, and pulls great, but will be overkill for my next adventure, assuming the car and trailer sell.
Car and all spares: SOLD
Car and trailer package price: NLA
Car, trailer, and van package price: NLA
PM with any questions or email me at scottmackela at gmail dot com
1989 CRX Si, original build as a track car was done in the Portland area and the clean, rust-free nature of the shell definitely reflects its origin on the west coast. Beautiful cage, too.
Purchased in 2018. Since then, I’ve put a lot of time and money into it. When I bought it, it was basically an ITA car with a virgin SCCA logbook. I’ve always run it as a limited-prep FP car, though, and have been gradually building it toward those rules. Here are the highlights:
Blake Meredith-built D16A6. Plenty of power for the class—I was seeing trap speeds of 124-125 on the back straight at Mid Ohio and 121-122 on the front straight at Grattan even though I am a mediocre driver at best and usually brake way too early. Real Bisi header, RSX injectors, ~12:1 pistons, Web (I think?) cam. Rev limiter set at 8000 for reliability and longevity. Hondata S300. Dyno sheet available. Made 155 whp on a Dynojet, 139 whp on a Mustang dyno.
Mishimoto aluminum two-row radiator. Oil cooler (forget brand, will check and update ad)
Bonespec hybrid HF/ZC trans with 4.25 FD and OPM/Eckerich limited slip. The nice, tight spread of ratios in this box mean that 2nd through 5th are all usable. Lightweight flywheel, four or six-puck clutch (can’t remember, it’s been a while). Driveshaft Shop axles.
Fastbrakes 10.25 brake kit with Wilwood Superlite calipers and two-piece rotors. Stock MC and booster, but the Fastbrakes kit really improved the pedal feel. Stock rear drum setup, but with the finned aluminum HF drums.
Kingpin Machine sphericals for the front radius rods. PCI adjustable front UCAs, spherical rear trailing arm bearings, and rear upper camber links. Koni Yellows and adjustable coilovers (currently running 550F/750R),. ST rear swaybar. Karcepts front hubs.
Hardwired transponder.
Rywire engine/chassis harness
Lightweight Braille battery and two chargers (though I’ve never had to use them, as the car still runs an alternator and the Braille does not discharge appreciably between weekends or even seasons)
Kirkey road race seat. Racequip 6-point camlock belts, new this season.
Autometer tach, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, voltage, and fuel pressure gauges.
Fire system.
Minimum weight with the alternate brakes and gearbox is 1986 lbs. Car crossed the scales this year at Mid Ohio at 2022 lbs and 2030 lbs at Grattan, both times with the roughly 210-pound me in the driver’s seat. This is with steel fenders, hood, and hatch, and glass, not lexan. It certainly wouldn’t be hard to get it the rest of the way down to minimum weight.
Lots of wheels:
6 13x7 Compomotive CX-Rs. Currently, four of them have slicks mounted and two have Hoosier H2O rains.
4 13x7 Panasports with a mix of old slicks mounted.
4 13x7 Keizer 3-piece. Shells will need to be resealed to the centers. No tires.
4 13x5.5 Honda steel wheels with ancient Dirt Stockers
4 13x5.5 Honda alloys. Two have Hoosier H2O rains, two have no tires.
I also probably have a few loose slicks and a set of loose hand-grooved intermediates.
Spare trans, built by Bonespec, has about a season and a half on it. 4.9 FD, OPM/Eckerich limited slip.
Two spare stock transmissions.
Spare Exedy lightweight flywheel and clutch
Spare D16A6, mild build, would probably make an okay regional engine or base for another full-boogie FP engine.
Spare front uprights, rear LCAs (and probably stock upper links, too), Fluidyne aluminum radiator, swaybars, springs (400F/600R), ECUs, taillights and center panels, rebuilt axles (both sides)
Spare front and rear bumper covers (both red)
A couple other tubs of stuff I’m sure I’m forgetting, but will inventory and update this week.
For those who are seriously interested, I’ve got scads of photos documenting the build that were provided to me when I bought the car. Way too many to post here. It may not have quite been a money-is-no-object build, but somebody wasn’t afraid to throw a lot of money at it. In the previous owner’s for-sale thread, it was described as more of a show car than a racecar, and that was pretty much true. It’s since acquired the racecar patina, but it’s straight and never been in a wreck.
Car is basically turnkey and ready to go, though I would recommend chaning the timing belt and cam seal during the off-season. It’s reliable (my only DNFs since I bought it were when I ventilated the stock D16 back at the Grattan major in 2018, and at Road America, where I had a fuel starvation issue in left handers and decided to pull in, rather than get in anyone’s way) and fun to drive.
Even with a hack like me behind the wheel, it’s a front-running regional car and midpack national car. I managed to run a 1:27.6 at Grattan and a 1:42.6 at Mid Ohio, both with the stock front brakes. Put somebody with actual talent in the driver’s seat and tweak the setup accordingly and it won’t be hard to go faster than me. But after 5 seasons of driving FWD production-based cars, I’ve realized that I’ve plateaued as a driver, so I’m ready to try something different.
A 24-foot beast of a Wells Cargo enclosed trailer is also available with the car (or separately, once the car is sold). 7000-lb axles, 48” side door, lots of e-track on the floor and walls, extra-high (probably 7’ inside, since I’m nearly 6’4” and never feel the need to stoop in the trailer). Built in 1989-ish, I think, and definitely much stouter than most of the new stuff these days. New tires (including spare) a few years ago, brakes work well, pulls nice and straight. Husky weight-distributing hitch and anti-sway setup.
Tow rig also available. 2004 Ford E350 Club Wagon XLT, 12-passenger (regular body, not extended) with the 6.8 V10, tow mirrors, brake controller, etc. Quite a unicorn, from what I can tell, as most of the V10 vans out there are extended body, 15-passenger models that are probably less than ideal for towing. This one has Bilstein shocks all around and the Hellwig rear sway bar. New E-range tires all around (plus new spare) this summer. Hot heat, cold a/c, no rust. Sony touchscreen head unit with backup camera. 106,000 miles. Runs, drives, and pulls great, but will be overkill for my next adventure, assuming the car and trailer sell.
Car and all spares: SOLD
Car and trailer package price: NLA
Car, trailer, and van package price: NLA
PM with any questions or email me at scottmackela at gmail dot com
