Double Bearing Hubs
- Thread starter Keith35
- Start date
Ron Bartell
Well-known member
There is a speedy sleeve for the seal surface but I don't have that info handy. If someone else doesn't come up with it I will look it up. The seals tend to leak when the bearings get worn enough to let everything get moving around too much. It is not uncommon to replace the seals every few races when the bearings start to wear. I know that the XLS 1 3/4 bearings are expensive, but they need to be replaced periodically and the other std bearings are cheap enough that you can afford to replace them more often. What seal are you using?
You can also try some tricks to minimize the amount of oil that gets out there - o-rings on the axle shaft, slingers, baffles,etc. You can also use a bearing that has a seal on the inner part of the outer bearing, and then pack the thin XLS bearing with grease because it won't get any oil. But you won't have to worry about leaks either.
You can also try some tricks to minimize the amount of oil that gets out there - o-rings on the axle shaft, slingers, baffles,etc. You can also use a bearing that has a seal on the inner part of the outer bearing, and then pack the thin XLS bearing with grease because it won't get any oil. But you won't have to worry about leaks either.
craig bryant
Well-known member
Federal Mogul National Redi-Sleeves Part Number 99175. 1.747-1.753 Shaft.
Hope that helps.
Craig
Hope that helps.
Craig
R. J. Sorensen
Well-known member
Keith,
I agree with Ron B. on this. A little weeping/seepage is likely the seal. Greater wetness/flow is likely something more serious. Bearing wear greater cause than thought.
Check something obvious; is the seal in the correct way? (lip facing the bearings)
Do you use the clamp screws that hold the axle to the hub? Without them, the joint can loosen and leak every time you have the tires off. Realize the hub is always about 1/3 full of oil.
More obvious with disc brakes, less so with drums.
After the obvious, it's stopping oil from getting past the outer bearing using housing baffles, axle slingers, sealed bearings, etc. Remember the more expensive inner bearing needs lubrication also.
Let us know your progress.
RJS
I agree with Ron B. on this. A little weeping/seepage is likely the seal. Greater wetness/flow is likely something more serious. Bearing wear greater cause than thought.
Check something obvious; is the seal in the correct way? (lip facing the bearings)
Do you use the clamp screws that hold the axle to the hub? Without them, the joint can loosen and leak every time you have the tires off. Realize the hub is always about 1/3 full of oil.
More obvious with disc brakes, less so with drums.
After the obvious, it's stopping oil from getting past the outer bearing using housing baffles, axle slingers, sealed bearings, etc. Remember the more expensive inner bearing needs lubrication also.
Let us know your progress.
RJS
Gary Wittman
Well-known member
One thing I discovered about using a seal on the outer bearing with grease on the inner bearing is; as heat builds up in that sealed area with the grease, pressure also seems to build up and the inner seal tends to get pushed out of the hub causing a bigger leak. I have come up with a system that positively holds the inner seal in place but have not tried the outer seal with grease on the inner bearing with this system yet.
R. J. Sorensen
Well-known member
Outer bearing is retained by the axle flange in all hubs; inner bearings are not retained in many hubs. Retaining methods include retaining ring (necessitates using thinner seal) or set screws through wall of hub.
It is my belief that bearing "walk" is the result of the center lines of the inner and outer bearing not being exactly aligned. The hub has to be re-chucked to be reversed, usually on a different outside surface. Very easy for center of one bearing bore to be off .001"-.003" from the center of the other bore if machined on a lathe.
I had my hub bearing bores ground on an ID / OD grinder; never had a "walking" problem.
Try having the bores hard chrome plated and finish ground. (Google Eagle Plating and Grinding)
RJS
It is my belief that bearing "walk" is the result of the center lines of the inner and outer bearing not being exactly aligned. The hub has to be re-chucked to be reversed, usually on a different outside surface. Very easy for center of one bearing bore to be off .001"-.003" from the center of the other bore if machined on a lathe.
I had my hub bearing bores ground on an ID / OD grinder; never had a "walking" problem.
Try having the bores hard chrome plated and finish ground. (Google Eagle Plating and Grinding)
RJS
R. J. Sorensen
Well-known member
Ummmmm;
That would be Eagle Grinding and Plating; S. 27th St., Milwaukee, WI; good work.
RJS
That would be Eagle Grinding and Plating; S. 27th St., Milwaukee, WI; good work.
RJS