Alignment suggestions

B

Bruce H

New member
Ok, so my ex GP midget finally went to the tire shop for a check on the alignment so I have a starting mark before I make any upgrades and adjustments, but was wondering what type of specs are you running on similar cars or is this more of a black art as no one willing to let on what they are doing on their cars.
The car still has the stock front end, I did not get any set up books with the car.

Bruce H.
 
Everybody has their own preference. It depends a lot on how the car is set up and your driving style. I personally like a of positive castor. About 3 - 4 degrees is as much as I can get with the use of the stock wishbones. With that I don't use a lot of negative camber. The castor helps to give more camber when turning. I run 1/2 degree maximum negative camber and that varies depending on the track. I have seen some run as high as 2 degrees negative camber. I set toe at 0 to 1/32" toe-in. I want as little drag as possible.
 
Bruce,

You didn't say if your application is for track or street. Different needs.

Realize the Sprite/Midget suspension was never designed to be adjusted (easily). Caster was achieved by bending the front frame rails up. What came from the factory is pretty much what you drove on the street.

What adjustments are available now are made available through the use of elongated holes, offset bushings, shims and spacers.

I raced a basically stock suspension, and 1 1/2 -2 degrees negative camber was about normal. Zero toe in, +1/32"/-zero for the reasons Gary gave. Too much rolling resistance with sticky tires.

RJS
 
Yes, for road racing at Gimili Manitoba. the specs that I got right now are:

caster left: 3.1 degrees
caster right: 1.9 degrees

camber left : -.6 degrees
camber right: .2 degrees

toe left: -3/8"
toe right: - 5/16"

Bruce H.
 
This may sound silly, but make sure you use a good shop. I've seen some very sloppy measurements come out of "regular" alignment shops.
 
Bruce,

I assume all measurements / adjustments have been done with driver (or equivalent weight) in place and nominal fuel load.

I'm surprised by the difference in caster since this is not easily adjusted.

The toe-in numbers are HUGE. It must be hard to push this car, and it must roll back 6'-10" after being pushed.

RJS
 
I do trust these guys, I did say about 200 lb in the drivers seat, but will have to check again as the just put new tires on the tahoe for summer towing. Thanks for the replies so far.

Bruce
 
Caster split is not normal on cars that turn R&L unless predominantly 1 direction. More caster causes the car to dewedge (ie unload the outside tire in a corner which is a good thing. Way too much toe in.....scrubs off too much straightline speed. Most folks like 1/16" toe OUT per side to improve turn in response....REALLY helps. Static camber depends on your suspension camber gain, wheel rate, roll rate......not possible to just copy someone else's without knowing where wheel camber ends up mid corner.

Key is finding out what YOUR car likes....other people's numbers are largely useless. This means lots of testing.
 
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