Advice on mounting Lexan rear hatch window on CRX

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davegt27

Well-known member
I have the Lexan cut out and I have a Carbon Fiber rear hatch

Not sure on how to go about mounting the Lexan

Any advice or tips


last Pic i took

 
I used screws and nylocks, and used oversized holes in the lexan, and didn't tighten very tight.
 
Ok cool looks like the straps don’t have to touch the Lexan

Did the hatch have that flange (the part the screws go through on the hatch side) or did you add it?

Thanks
David
 
Yup, just drill some evenly spaced holes through the window and window frame, and attach with self tapping screws. You can also lay a big, wide bead of silicone down between the two as well, to help cushion it a little, reduce noise, and keep water out a bit. That's what I did on my Integra. The silicone won't stay stuck to the Lexan either once it all hardens up, so you'll still be able to pull the window on and off just by removing the screws if/when you want to, but that silicone layer will just remain there stuck to the window frame. I also firmly believe that window straps should be on both the inside and the outside of the rear window, as it's going to experience higher air pressure on its outside versus its inside. After my rear window blew in during the 2010 Runoffs race, I started putting a strap on both sides of the window that basically sandwich the Lexan in-between them. It's also a good idea, in my opinion, to use tape and some newspaper to mask off the inside of the back window, except about 2-3" of the very outer edge of it, and use spray paint to make a black border all the way around the inside edge of the window. It'll help retain a more clean and stock-ish look, while also helping to hide the silicone and any possible cracking that might occur near the screw holes.
 
Silicone is a good idea, it will also help to get the Lexan more flush with the frame. I used foam weatherstripping.
 
All of that ^

I have the same setup on my crx (you'll be happy with the weight savings!) I'd add on to use nylock nuts or they will rattle out. I used adhesive foam weather stripping instead of silicon. Due to the shape of the crx hatch the window will bow in. Due to this I'm considering redoing with inner supports to push the window out. You also have to decide what to do about the hinge bulges. I put the lexan all the way up and it kind of sticks up in the air there. You can trim around or trim short and glue on the upper trim strip from the original hatch.

http://thereselombardiphotography.zenfo ... /e4e503c99 <-- pic won't embed.
 
The fiberglass hatch actually had more "flashing" on the inside, so I just trimmed it to around 1" and used that, along with washers on the underside, so it won't pull through. This will allow for "flexing" but not so rigid that it vibrates the entire thing off the car.
 
On my 88 CRX I used the 3M product. Painted the edge of the lexan on the inside matte black to match the original glass window black edge. I used no screws at all. My strapes don't touch the lexan. The window-weld did mess up the black paint a little, but I didn't use an automotive paint. Just some rattle can flat black. 6 years, it is still in place.
 
I didn't retain the upper hinges, since they were damaged in the Run-Offs "oops" during Qual #2. So, as you can see from the picture, pins at the bottom, and spring clips at the top. I would've liked to have done something different, with a more "solid" mount at the top, and flexible mount at the bottom, but there was no way to do pins at the top, or some kind of slide in mortise/tenon type joint at the top, so this is what I did. Haven't had any problems getting the hatch on / off, but you need to pin the bottom first, then attach the spring clips at the top.

3 motto's I like:
KISS
If it's not broken, don't fix it
Just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean you SHOULD do something
 
You must be changing classes, since carbon fiber hatches and lexan windows are not allowed in ITA.
 
Since the window is polycarbonate, I used a can of Pactra paint from my R/C car racing days knowing that it wouldn't flake off. It almost looks professional when done. And I second the nylock usage.

Paint from the inside (yes, yet another Miata...):

15282303793_dfa5de1ff7_z.jpg
 
I just remembered (the hard way) that the big piece of hatch lexan expands a lot so leave plenty of room so it can be opened after it sits in the sun.
 
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